Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select group of global cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a worldwide network of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "is a testament to its profound food heritage and vibrant culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city is little surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its essence: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on many street corners, there are little shops and carts – hidden treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and complicated. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their children are unwilling to master the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will encourage more people around the world to learn these stories and visit the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
